Rock Climbing in Ecuador
Discovery of the Decade: Towers of Simiatug
Entering the old volcanic cirque of Simiatug seemed to be a dream come true. Long had our crew of Fundacion Acceso Andino, looked for crack climbing traditional multi pitch First Ascents. However, there was an important question to answer: Will the local indigenous communities let us climb there?
We started by contacting the local authorities and asking for directions, here we met Manuel Talahua, local tourism advocate from the tiny indigenous community of Cocha Colorada, 3000 ft below the rock. Manuel showed us around, and never thought anyone could eventually visit them and climb up the towers that have protected him and his ancestors for millennia.
Our first “scout” mission turned up to be a full on 4 day trip where we set up the most vertical multi pitch cracks of out nation! First ascents everywhere with a purist style from ground up. We put our attention mostly on the rightmost tower, Warmi Torre. A masterpiece, Strange and Eternal was set up 3 pitch crack 5.10+.
Slowly our crew grew and our visits to Simiatug where we help the local indigenous community with basic services such as hiring them for the use of animals to shuttle up gear to Base Camp, or local food. slowly they have become more psyched than us in this project! Involving now the local mayor or nearby city Medardo Chimbolema from Guaranda, who has offered us support to create this place into a Tourism Adventure Park.
More info on: www.fondoaccesoandino.org
Trailer by Levitar Media House: HERE
Guidebook for Simiatug: HERE
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